from West: The Restaurant
Goat cheese was among many foods introduced to Europe by the Moors; Crottin de Chavignol (France), Castelo Branco (Portugal) and Caprino (Italy) are all reasonably well-known varieties. Goat cheese has evolved considerably from supermarket feta. That stalwart still has its place, but Salt Spring Island Cheese Company’s David Wood has taken the humble chevre into another dimension at West. https://saltspringcheese.ca/
Ingredients
1/3 cup white port
2/3 cup sweet wine, like Essensia orange muscat
1/3 cup Armagnac
7 tsp sugar
7 tsp salt
½ tsp Chinese five-spice powder
2 lobes foie gras, about 1 lb each
8 oz Marcella goat cheese
¼ cup whipping cream
½ cup simple syrup
2 Granny Smith apples, peeled and finely sliced
1 celeriac, about 1 lb, peeled and sliced dime-thin on a mandolin
½ cup apple juice
½ cup balsamic vinegar
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Directions
Combine white port, sweet wine, Armagnac, sugar, salt and five-spice powder in a marinating dish. Devein foie gras and add to the marinade. Cover and leave for 24 hours in the refrigerator.
Line a small terrine mould with plastic wrap and preheat oven to 250F. Press foie gras into the mould, cover with aluminum foil and place the mould in a baking dish. Pour boiling water into the baking dish around the terrine mould to make a bain marie, then place the baking dish in the oven and cook for 25 minutes. Remove the mould from the water, prick holes along the edge of the terrine and place a weight on top of the terrine to allow excess fat to escape. Leave the mould like this for 24 hours in the refrigerator.
Gently fold together goat cheese and cream.
Bring simple syrup (2 cups sugar & 2 cups water) to a boil in a small saucepan. Add apple slices; remove from heat and allow to cool.
Remove the foie gras from the terrine and slice into five equal pieces lengthwise. Reline the terrine mould with plastic wrap. Place the narrowest slice of foie gras in the terrine mould and cover with a single layer of sliced apple followed by a 1/4-inch-thick layer of goat cheese and another layer of sliced apple. Place the next slice of foie gras on top and repeat the process. Pull the plastic wrap over the terrine, place a 2-lb weight on top and allow to set in the refrigerator.
Cut celeriac into discs 2 inches in diameter. Place in a small saucepan with the apple juice and balsamic vinegar. Cook on medium heat until the liquid is reduced to a syrup consistency, about 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then add the olive oil.
To Serve: On each of ten or more plates, arrange eight to ten slices of celeriac in a circle. Cut terrine into 1/2-inch slices and place a slice of terrine in the middle of the plate.
Suggested Wine: A rancio-style Rivesaltes is rich enough not to be overwhelmed by the foie gras, and its combination of fruit and aged character both complements and contrasts with the peppery sweet and sour notes in the balsamic syrup. Also, Tokaj Aszu 5 Puttonyos, a sweet wine from Hungary is a treat when you can find it.
Serves 10+
Nada’s Tips & Tricks: Having a garden party and want to impress your guests? This is a great way to start that lunch or evening dinner. North Americans are a little more reticent about foie gras but when we were in Paris, every charcuterie board came with it. In Canada, you may need to go to a specialty food shop or your local butcher to find it…but its well worth the effort to hunt it down. Can’t find it? For rich flavor and texture, chicken livers, duck or goose fat, or even a well-made mushroom duxelles can be used. For a plant-based option, consider vegan foie gras products like Fuah or Faux Gras, or a cashew-based spread.
Contents and images used with permission by Douglas & McIntyre. https://douglas-mcintyre.com/products/9781553653578