Few places tell their story through food as vividly as Nova Scotia, where Indigenous traditions, Acadian ingenuity, Scottish resilience, African Nova Scotian heritage, and waves of immigration have all left their mark on the province’s culinary landscape. In Dulse to Donairs: An Irreverent History of Food in Nova Scotia, Steven Laffoley serves up a deliciously entertaining exploration of those influences, creating a book that is as much a social history as it is a celebration of regional cuisine.
Part history lesson, part cultural commentary, and part culinary adventure, Laffoley’s book traces the evolution of Nova Scotia’s foodways from the earliest Mi’kmaq harvesting traditions to the late-night donair shops that have become an iconic symbol of Halifax. His approach is refreshingly informal. Rather than presenting a dry chronology of recipes and ingredients, he peppers the narrative with humour, anecdotes, folklore, and unexpected historical connections that make the province’s culinary past feel alive and deeply personal.
Food lovers will appreciate the breadth of the book’s subject matter. Laffoley moves effortlessly from the salty allure of dulse harvested along the Bay of Fundy to lobster suppers, oatcakes, rappie pie, fish cakes, chowders, and the province’s enduring relationship with the sea. Along the way, he reveals how geography, economics, immigration, and cultural exchange shaped what Nova Scotians ate and why. Readers gain a richer understanding of how necessity, adaptation, and community transformed simple ingredients into beloved traditions. To tickle your tastebuds, try the Dulse Popcorn with Maple Syrup in our Recipe section.
One of the book’s greatest strengths is its ability to place food within the broader story of Nova Scotia. The author explores the influence of Acadian settlers, Gaelic-speaking Scots, Loyalists, and other newcomers while acknowledging the foundational contributions of the Mi’kmaq people. He also highlights the role of African Nova Scotians and lesser-known cultural influences that have enriched the province’s culinary identity. The result is a nuanced portrait of a region whose cuisine reflects centuries of encounter, hardship, innovation, and celebration.
For travelers seeking to understand Nova Scotia beyond its scenic coastlines and postcard-perfect fishing villages, Dulse to Donairs offers valuable context. It explains why certain dishes endure, why local ingredients inspire such fierce pride, and how food continues to connect communities across the province. Reading it before embarking on a culinary tour adds depth to every lobster roll, bowl of chowder, and slice of oatcake encountered along the way.
Laffoley’s irreverent tone may not appeal to readers looking for an academic food history, but it is precisely this accessibility that makes the book so engaging. His enthusiasm for Nova Scotia’s culinary heritage is infectious, inviting readers to laugh, learn, and perhaps develop a few cravings along the way. Enter to win a copy of the book in our Giveaway section or you can purchase it at Dulse to Donairs An Irreverent History of Food in Nova Scotia – Nimbus Publishing and Vagrant Press
Dulse to Donairs is an entertaining and insightful companion for anyone interested in the intersection of food, culture, and history. Like the province it celebrates, the book is colourful, distinctive, and full of flavour—a satisfying read that leaves you hungry for both knowledge and your next Nova Scotia meal.
Contents and images used with permission by Nimbus Publishing. Dulse to Donairs An Irreverent History of Food in Nova Scotia – Nimbus Publishing and Vagrant Press